Larb gai is a dish of browned floor rooster, mint, basil and purple onions dressed with lime juice and floor purple chiles that is fashionable in Laos and Isan, neighboring rural sections of Thailand. (The dish is usually spelled laab, lob or lop.) It is excellent sizzling climate meals: spicy, crunchy and lightweight, however wealthy in flavors and contrasts. Historically, this dish is made with a roasted rice powder that is ready by toasting uncooked rice in a wok, then grounding it to a powder, however you’ll find premade roasted rice powder at Asian markets. No matter you do, do not skip it — it provides a nuttiness that is important to the genuine taste of the dish. —Julia Moskin
