Rebel rule in Idlib hints at what the rest of Syria can expect

The highway to Idlib, a distant nook in north-west Syria, nonetheless has the indicators of the outdated entrance traces: trenches, deserted navy positions, rocket shells and ammunition.

Till a bit greater than every week in the past, this was the one space within the nation managed by the opposition.

From Idlib, rebels led by the Islamist group Hayat Tahrir al-Sham, or HTS, launched an astonishing offensive that toppled Bashar al-Assad and ended his household’s five-decade dictatorship in Syria.

Because of this, they’ve turn into the nation’s de facto authorities and look like making an attempt to carry their means of governing to the remainder of Syria.

In Idlib’s metropolis centre, opposition flags, with a inexperienced stripe and three crimson stars, have been flying excessive in public squares and being waved by women and men, young and old, within the wake of Assad’s elimination. Graffiti on partitions celebrated the resistance in opposition to the regime.

Whereas destroyed buildings and piles of rubble have been a reminder of the not-so-distant struggle, renovated homes, lately opened outlets and well-maintained roads have been testomony that some issues had, certainly, improved. However there have been complaints of what was seen as heavy-handed rule by the authorities.

After we visited earlier this week, streets have been comparatively clear, visitors lights and lamp-posts labored, and officers have been current within the busiest areas. Easy issues absent in different elements of Syria, and a supply of delight right here.

HTS has its origins in al-Qaeda however, lately, has actively tried to rebrand itself as a nationalist drive, distant from its jihadist previous and intent on eradicating Assad.

As fighters marched to Damascus earlier this month, its leaders spoke about constructing a Syria for all Syrians. It’s, nonetheless, nonetheless described as a terrorist organisation by the US, the UK, the UN and others, together with Turkey, which backs some Syrian rebels.

The group took management of most of this area, residence to 4.5 million individuals, in 2017, bringing stability after years of civil struggle.

The administration, referred to as the Salvation Authorities, runs water and electrical energy distribution, rubbish assortment and highway pavement.

Taxes collected from companies, farmers and crossings with Turkey fund its public providers – in addition to its navy operations.

“Beneath Assad, they used to say that Idlib was the forgotten metropolis,” stated Dr Hamza Almoraweh, a heart specialist, as he handled sufferers in a hospital arrange in an outdated publish workplace warehouse.

He moved from Aleppo along with his spouse in 2015 when the struggle there intensified, however was not planning to return, even with town beneath insurgent management.

“We have seen lots of growth right here. Idlib has lots of issues that it did not have beneath the Assad regime.”

Because it moderated its tone, in search of to acquire worldwide recognition amid native opposition, HTS revoked among the strict social guidelines it had imposed when it got here to energy, together with costume codes for girls and a ban on music in colleges.

And a few individuals cite current protests, together with in opposition to taxes imposed by the federal government, as proof {that a} sure stage of criticism is tolerated, in distinction with the repression of the Assads.

“It isn’t a full democracy, however there’s freedom,” stated Fuad Sayedissa, an activist.

“There have been some issues at the start however, within the final years, they have been appearing in a greater means and are attempting to alter.”

Initially from Idlib, Sayedissa now lives in Turkey, the place he runs the non-governmental organisation Violet. Like 1000’s of Syrians, the autumn of Assad meant he might go to his metropolis once more – in his case, for the primary time in a decade.

However demonstrations have additionally been held in opposition to what some say is authoritarian rule. To consolidate energy, consultants say, the group targeted extremists, absorbed rivals and imprisoned opponents.

“How the federal government will act in the entire Syria is a special story,” Sayedissa stated. Syria is a various nation and after a long time of oppression and violence perpetrated by the regime and its allies, many are thirsty for justice. “Individuals are nonetheless celebrating, however they’re additionally nervous concerning the future.”

We tried to interview an area official, however have been instructed all of them had gone to Damascus to assist in the brand new authorities.

An hour’s drive from Idlib, within the small Christian village of Quniyah, the church bells rang for the primary time in a decade on 8 December to rejoice Assad’s elimination.

The neighborhood, close to the Turkish border, was bombed in the course of the civil struggle, which began in 2011 when Assad crushed peaceable protests in opposition to him and lots of of its residents fled.

Solely 250 individuals remained.

“Syria is best since Assad fell,” stated Friar Fadi Azar.

The rise of Islamists, nonetheless, has raised fears that minorities, together with Assad’s Alawites, may very well be in danger, regardless of the messages from HTS reassuring spiritual and ethnic teams that they’d be protected.

“Within the final two years, they [HTS] began altering… Earlier than, it was very exhausting,” Friar Azar stated.

Properties have been confiscated and spiritual rituals restricted.

“They gave [our community] extra freedom, they known as on different Christians who have been refugees to return again to take their land and houses again.”

However is the change real? Can they be trusted? “What can we do? We’ve got no different possibility,” he stated. “We belief them.”

I requested Sayedissa, the activist, why even opponents have been reluctant to criticise the group.

“They’re now the heroes… [But] we’ve got crimson traces. We’ll not enable dictators once more, Jolani or another,” he stated, referring to Ahmed al-Shara, the HTS chief who dropped his nom de guerre Abu Mohammad al-Jolani after coming to energy.

“In the event that they act as dictators, the individuals are able to say no, as a result of they now have their freedom.”