Lastly made it to Florence…
After an epic journey from DC to Rome, then by prepare to Florence, I’ve arrived on the gorgeous Bottega Veneta Suite on the St. Regis Florence. With the Arno River flowing proper exterior my window, this shall be my base camp for the 108th version of Pitti Uomo—and what per week it guarantees to be.
Understanding Pitti Uomo: Extra Than Simply Menswear Theater
Should you’re an off-the-cuff menswear fanatic who’s by no means skilled Pitti firsthand, the countless stream of photographs would possibly make it seem to be nothing greater than well-dressed males posing with cigars and Negronis—what I wish to name the “influencer petting zoo” (trademark pending).
Whereas there’s actually a few of that spectacle, Pitti Uomo is basically the world’s most vital menswear commerce present. Held twice yearly at Florence’s historic Fortezza da Basso, it’s the place world manufacturers showcase collections to patrons and press, the place trade traits are born, and the place the enterprise of menswear will get executed.
Consider Pitti like a superbly balanced Negroni—equal components commerce present, social occasions, and networking alternatives. Every element is important to the entire expertise.
My 4-Level Pitti Technique
I don’t come to Florence simply to face round trying trendy (although that’s actually a part of it). My strategy facilities on 4 key targets:
1. Networking: The menswear world is surprisingly intimate. Each dialog could lead on nowhere—or in every single place. Constructing real connections stays essential on this relationship-driven trade.
2. Model Consciousness: Past my on-line presence, the He Spoke Type Store affords direct entry to my total tailor-made wardrobe by what I imagine is the perfect worth in on-line customized menswear.
3. Occasion Internet hosting: For 3 consecutive Pitti editions, He Spoke Type has partnered with Michael Andrews Bespoke and Angel Ramos New York to host memorable occasions, together with our Monday night time artistic black tie aperitivo on the St. Regis Winter Backyard—now generally known as Pitti’s unofficial opening ceremony.
4. Content material Creation: Documenting the expertise for our group whereas collaborating with companions creates lasting worth past the week itself.
The Artwork of Pitti Dressing: Seven Themed Appears
Moderately than pack randomly, our six-person crew established every day themes to create visible cohesion whereas permitting particular person expression. Right here’s how I interpreted every idea:
Black Tie Artistic
Typically the perfect creativity lies in restraint. You might argue that my interpretation isn’t overly artistic, and also you wouldn’t essentially be mistaken, however this represents precisely how artistic I’m personally snug being inside formal gown codes. My go-to technique all the time revolves round deciding on a standout dinner jacket that does the heavy lifting.
This mild blue possibility options unbelievable texture and breathable cloth good for Florence’s summer season warmth. The colour makes a press release with out veering into costume territory. I’ve paired it with a pleated entrance tuxedo shirt—my signature transfer for elevating formal appears to be like past the usual.
White suspenders present each operate and basic attraction, whereas a coordinated stud set paired with classic cufflinks provides private historical past to the look. A midnight bow tie bridges the colour palette superbly, and patent leather-based loafers floor the ensemble with conventional formal footwear.
Tonal Tuesday
Earlier this 12 months, I coined “Tonal Tuesday” and it resonated so properly that it’s now change into a recurring theme. Whilst you would possibly acknowledge components from a earlier video, I made key updates to maintain it recent and completely suited to Pitti. The inspiration is an ivory twill swimsuit that’s truthfully change into one among my favourite items of the season.
I’ve paired it with a sand-colored chambray shirt that creates delicate distinction by texture slightly than shade. That is the place tonal dressing actually shines—while you take away the distraction of contrasting colours, you concentrate on the interaction of textures and delicate shade variations. The chambray’s informal weave towards the swimsuit’s clean twill creates visible curiosity with out breaking the monochromatic concord.
Brown suede equipment preserve this tonal strategy whereas complementing the nice and cozy undertones, and vintage-inspired sun shades add old-school sophistication. The general impact is polished but relaxed, completely capturing that easy Italian class that Pitti embodies.
Technicolor
To be sincere, I initially thought of sitting out technicolor altogether. A lot of daring shade isn’t my pure wheelhouse, however I discovered an strategy that allowed me to take part authentically whereas staying true to my aesthetic. The important thing was discovering the right car: a brand new merlot bamboo sport coat.
Bamboo cloth—typically referred to as California cashmere—is magical for summer season dressing. It affords cashmere softness whereas being considerably extra breathable and sensible for heat climate. The wealthy shade supplies the pop the theme demanded with out feeling garish. I’ve supported the colourful jacket with a light-weight pink shirt and ivory trousers that create a complicated tonal story.
The magic of bamboo extends past consolation—folks actually can’t cease themselves from touching it, which creates great dialog starters at an occasion like Pitti the place networking is essential.
Pitti PI
The “Pitti PI” theme offered basic Magnum archetypes: aloha shirt with nut-hugger denims, or informal prime with scandalously brief shorts. That is Pitti, not Halloween, so I took that Tom Selleck inspiration and filtered it by my private fashion lens. The centerpiece turned a silk-cotton camp collar shirt that completely captures that relaxed Hawaiian vibe whereas sustaining sophistication.
The important thing styling determination was tucking it in—direct homage to Magnum’s always-tucked strategy, however executed with tailor-made trousers slightly than these notorious tight denims. A ribbed t-shirt beneath provides consolation and authenticity to the tropical aesthetic, whereas white cotton trousers present a clear basis that’s decidedly not of the nut-hugger selection.
The baseball cap brings that important sporty American ingredient, whereas vintage-inspired sun shades preserve the retro really feel with out changing into costume-like. What makes this work is discovering stability between paying homage to an iconic character and creating one thing genuinely wearable for the setting.
Traditional Black Tie
Sporting a tuxedo in summer season isn’t an issue you probably have the best tuxedo. This wool-mohair mix “actually tropical tuxedo” maintains all of the class anticipated from black tie whereas being genuinely snug in heat climate. What I discover fascinating about black tie is how deceptively easy it seems, but numerous small particulars should come collectively completely.
I’ve chosen a self-textured tuxedo shirt to maintain issues ultra-classic whereas including simply sufficient visible curiosity to raise past primary rental-wear territory. The coordinated stud set and cufflinks create consistency throughout metallic components, whereas the silk cummerbund supplies that important of entirety separating correct black tie from merely sporting a black swimsuit.
The great thing about conventional black tie lies in its democracy—when executed correctly, the garments change into a backdrop that permits persona and dialog to take middle stage. There’s one thing liberating about realizing you’re dressed appropriately for just about any formal event.
Bringing Preppy Again
Preppy fashion by no means actually goes away—it simply takes periodic breaks earlier than returning with renewed relevance. For this theme, I wished to showcase a brand new sport coat that replaces a beloved piece that proved so in style it offered out utterly. This alabaster glen plaid sport coat represents every thing I like about preppy tailoring, with delicate plaid that gives visible curiosity with out being overwhelming.
The supporting clothes learn like a best hits of preppy necessities. The sunshine blue Oxford fabric button-down is probably essentially the most democratic piece of menswear ever created, whereas khaki cotton trousers create that easy American ease that preppy fashion does higher than some other aesthetic. The proportions are spot-on—structured sufficient to look polished however relaxed sufficient for lengthy commerce present days.
What elevates this past primary nation membership uniform is consideration to particulars and proportions. The game coat’s lower is modern whereas respecting conventional traces, and basic penny loafers with textured socks add visible curiosity on the basis.
Black & White
A black swimsuit in summer season might sound questionable, however just like the tropical tuxedo, this proves that cloth choice makes all of the distinction. Constructed in tropical wool, this swimsuit maintains the visible affect of black suiting whereas remaining genuinely snug in Florence’s warmest climate. The true persona comes from the silk-cotton shirt with its enjoyable sample that’s good for summertime dressing.
The styling will get attention-grabbing with the collar worn exterior the swimsuit lapel, creating basic Nineteen Seventies swagger that feels each nostalgic and modern. This element requires consideration to make sure the collar sits correctly over the lapel each back and front, however when executed appropriately, it transforms the outfit’s total angle from company to artistic.
Traditional sun shades add sophistication whereas ostrich leather-based footwear present surprising texture that elevates the look past customary enterprise apparel. The general impact is polished however with persona—precisely proper for Pitti’s distinctive mix of enterprise and elegance theater.
The Full Pitti Expertise
These seven appears to be like signify extra than simply outfit selections—they inform the story of how considerate dressing enhances each side of the Pitti expertise. From networking alternatives created by conversation-starting materials to the arrogance that comes from sporting completely fitted formal put on, every ensemble serves each sensible and aesthetic functions.
The great thing about Pitti lies in its distinctive mixture of significant enterprise and sartorial theater. Whether or not you’re navigating commerce present flooring, internet hosting night occasions, or just appreciating the unbelievable creativity on show, having a well-planned wardrobe permits you to absolutely have interaction with every thing this exceptional week affords.
Most significantly, these outfits show that growing your private fashion doesn’t imply abandoning your consolation zone—it means understanding it properly sufficient to stretch its boundaries thoughtfully. The very best dressed males at Pitti aren’t sporting costumes; they’re sporting elevated variations of themselves.
Thanks, as all the time, for studying.
