When Flamboyance Meets Perform
Evaluate of Max Mara Spring 2026 Trend Present
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Rococo Revival, Smooth Energy, Unfussy Fantasy
A brand new exhibition on the affect of juvenile queen Marie Antoinette at London’s V&A Museum could reignite the worlds love for her well-documented eccentricities and frothy female model nevertheless it was one other influential historic determine who as soon as once more made the moodboard of Max Mara’s artistic director Ian Griffiths. Madame de Pompadour made her title on “her personal benefit”, as he instructed The Impression backstage. Incomes her place within the Max Mara ‘pantheon’ todays present revisited her affect in the course of the Rococo period.
“Essentially the most highly effective political and cultural determine of her day, [Mme de Pompadour] based the Sèvres porcelain manufacturing facility and carried out in operas by Molière and Racine. Everybody’s speaking about Marie Antoinette in the intervening time. However we’re speaking about Mme de Pompadour, she made it to the highest by her personal expertise and deserves, and that’s what makes her so particular for Max Mara.” Ian Griffiths, Inventive Director, Max Mara
Because the story goes Mme de Pompadour was the mistress of Louis XV, so her place within the palace of Versailles was by no means assured, consistently strolling a tightrope of sweetness and lightweight, but additionally crafty and strategic pondering. A steadiness girls at present can empathise with, because the designer reiterated “The theme for this season is lightness and power, capriciousness and playfulness, however playfulness with energy.”
Griffiths is a designer who works to model codes but nonetheless manages to inject a definitive theme into his narratives – for fall 2025 it was the Brontë sisters. For spring 2026 that narrative centred across the escapism that everybody is craving in each facet of their lives, and in selecting the Rococo period – its lavish ornamentation and celebration of the aristocratic – the gathering might have change into overly advanced with ornamental parts, however in combining the disparate influences of Mme de Pompadour, David Bowie, Cecil Beatons portraits of the Queen and Princess Margaret within the Nineteen Fifties, and an undertone of fetishism the designer conveyed each lightness and power within the newest model of the Max Mara lady.
“This season every thing needs to be mild, mild, mild, however robust, robust, robust” Griffiths defined, so strict pencil skirts had been softened with ruffles throughout the hips, draped halter necks and uncovered midriffs had been secured harness model (there was that nod to fetishism which was pulled from Griffiths reflecting on British model, noting that “even when its elegant and formal, British model at its finest ought to have a component of fetishism”) with elastic again straps, and tailoring in spongey technical mesh appeared structured, but was superior sufficient – breathable, wrinkle resistant – the wearer might push the bounds of what constitutes being lively all day, because the designer famous “We used it all over the gathering as a foil for any parts which may have felt extra ornamental”.
Referencing an period as extremely ornamental because the Rococo required restraint in making use of its most distinguished design parts (from the pastel palette to extremely stylised patterns) to a set for spring. Taking a broader strategy, subtler design particulars had been reused together with the ruffles on the hem of Mme de Pompadour’s attire, and taking the origins of the phrase i.e. Rocaille in French which suggests rock work and refers back to the scroll patterns of seashells, delicate coral in an nearly pale print uplifted formal skirt fits, “I regarded on the style of the 18th century and the cupboard of curiosities, which introduced collectively these wonders of land, sea, and air – the birds and aquatic creatures” stated Griffths.
Many designers have additionally featured historic particulars equivalent to bustles and bloomers of their collections, and whereas a enjoyable throwback, Griffiths is pondering in sensible phrases. A little bit of female flounce constructed on a basis of perform, as a result of if there may be one factor the Max Mara lady isn’t, it’s frivolous in her way of living. Sure, she will recognize a ruffled sleeve and a touch of delicacy, however she nonetheless wants a well-tailored go well with and separates to navigate life.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
Energy comes from angle and fussy garments don’t provide you with a way of energy. I all the time assume that we discuss empowering clothes, nevertheless it’s arduous to outline what really empowers, however you quickly realize it if one thing’s too fussy and you may’t put on it simply, you don’t really feel highly effective. So our job is to create garments through which you are feeling highly effective, as you recognize energy is one thing you discover by its absence.
Ian Griffiths, Inventive Director, Max Mara
THE WRAP UP
The third day of Milan trend week was a questioning of freedom and energy. How can fashionable trend design give girls their energy again, make them really feel highly effective, and the way can we outline it for ourselves?
In todays Max Mara present power and lightness (as a metaphor for freedom) mixed with the fantasy of the Rococo period and technical fabrications spoke to the ‘world of contrasts’ we inhabit on a regular basis, and because the construction that continues to be the inspiration of the model had its boundaries examined, what got here to the forefront was an inviting iteration of soppy energy.
