Although the whispers had been circling for months, the style world is a-buzz over Monday’s affirmation that Jonathan Anderson, the Irish-born designer recognized for his cerebral but usually playful method, will formally succeed Maria Grazia Chiuri as the brand new artistic director of Dior throughout all classes. He’s spent the previous 11 years remodeling the Spanish home Loewe right into a cult-favorite model, which is able to now be helmed by designer duo, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the duo previously behind Proenza Schouler.
In Anderson’s new position, he’ll oversee ladies’s, males’s, and high fashion collections. This can be a uncommon, sweeping appointment that marks a pivotal chapter for the home, with Chiuri’s position as the previous artistic director on the maison was confined to high fashion, ready-to-wear, and equipment collections at Dior, with Kim Jones helming menswear. Whereas he is taking the reins at Dior, it is price noting that there was no announcement that he’ll step away from his namesake label, JW Anderson. Earlier than he ushers in his Dior period, we’re taking a second to revisit a few of Anderson’s most unforgettable contributions to trend over time at JW Anderson and Loewe.
Throughout Anderson’s tenure at Loewe, the home discovered a brand new rhythm formed by his playful avant-garde sensibility, surrealist prospers, and a penchant for sculptural, usually geometric silhouettes. A defining second got here early on with the Fall/Winter 2015 assortment, when Anderson launched the now-iconic Puzzle bag, which celebrates its 10-year anniversary this month. The deconstructed tackle the purse was not only a first for Anderson, however the home as properly, as the primary new bag silhouette to be launched because the Eighties.
Through the years, Anderson has proved that he’s by no means one to draw back from boundary-pushing silhouettes, imagining experimental collections the place nature got here alive with items like his unforgettable JW Anderson pigeon clutch from his Fall 2022 menswear present, that Sarah Jessica Parker’s Carrie Bradshaw wore within the filming of And Simply Like That…, together with Loewe’s grass clothes in 2022 and anthurium breastplate blouses in 2023. All of which challenged the thought behind artwork as trend and the way it pertains to human relationships with earth. Past the reveals, his designs left a definite imprint on popular culture, from customized tennis core appears for Zendaya’s Challengers press tour to Rihanna’s immediately iconic Tremendous Bowl efficiency ensemble.
Elsewhere, at JW Anderson, the designer leaned into his signature experimental and genre-bending fashion when he despatched crystal rope bras down the Spring/Summer time 2020 runway over draped silhouettes. On the Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2023 runway, Anderson took it one step additional when he launched pillow clutches as equipment, a luxurious cushion practically equivalent to your bed room necessity. Its absurdity marked a second the place trend met perform, with Anderson significantly questioning the zeitgeist’s understanding of the place fashion and luxury meet.
Forward, a couple of of our favourite Jonathan Anderson trend moments over time, earlier than his Dior debut later this month.
The Puzzle Bag
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Jonathan Anderson first launched the Puzzle bag in Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2015 assortment, which occurred at The Museum of Trendy Artwork New in York Metropolis. Aside from its modern, geometric form, distinctive supplies, and high quality craftsmanship, this piece marked an thrilling shift for each the model and former artistic director because it was Anderson’s first purse creation for the model and Loewe’s first new bag to launch because the Eighties.
Crystal Rope Bras
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On the JW Anderson Spring/Summer time 2020 present, Anderson debuted a sequence of crystal rope bras as equipment, which sat atop flowy silhouettes and draped attire, symbolizing the thought behind dualities which have the flexibility to be congruent, like softness and energy or trend and armor. Maybe a precursor to Anderson’s Loewe balloon bras.
Met Moments
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Through the 2023 Met Gala, Anderson dressed Ayo Edebiri, Ariana Grande, and Taylor Russell in swaths of pearly white and 3D illusions. From Edebiri’s blooming floral skirt to his wooden corset high for Russell—who made her debut on the carpet that yr—Anderson’s whimsical creations honored ‘The Backyard of Time’ gown code.
Pin Costume
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This floor-length, butter yellow robe from Loewe’s Spring/Summer time 2024 ready-to-wear assortment featured an enormous dressmaker pin pierced into the material close to the décolletage, paying homage to the designer’s surrealist imaginative and prescient.
Natural Materials
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In Loewe’s Spring/Summer time 2022 Menswear Assortment, Jonathan Anderson explored the fusion of trend and nature, that includes clothes and equipment being overtaken by genuine grass sprouting from seemingly sodden materials, which he achieved with the assistance of Spanish, sustainable designer Paula Ulargui Escalona. In Paris, the 2 designers grew chia vegetation and catswort for a span of 20 days to succeed in the specified progress, then integrating them into the gathering as if the greenery grew round and atop the clothes to indicate the intersection of trend, humanity, and sustainability.
Zendaya’s Tennis Apparel for Challengers
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On the press tour for Challengers, Zendaya wore two customized Loewe appears full with tennis ball heels and interpretive takes on the standard tennis gown.
Pillow Equipment
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At JW Anderson’s Milan Menswear Fall/Winter 2023 runway, the designer leaned into the avant-garde as he despatched fashions down clutching puffy pillow clutches to their individual—a slightly polarizing accent that was meant to blur the strains between trend and performance, showcasing how fashion and luxury can work in tandem.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2024 Assortment
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After Anderson discovered that Jackie Kennedy Onassis collected Albert York work, the Loewe Fall/Winter 2024 assortment was born. The designer performed on the notion of sophistication, wealth, and the importance that top society bestows on artifact, producing unforgettable items on the runway, just like the architectural, dog-printed A-line gown meant to parallel the mosaic rings of the elite, which regularly featured their pets.
Loewe Spring/Summer time 2023 Assortment
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Loewe’s anthurium assortment noticed strolling surrealism, with natural world breastplates and heels, in addition to pixelated items that blurred the strains of trend and artwork.
JW Anderson x Michael Clark Collab
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In 2023, Anderson’s JW Anderson collaborated with dancer and choreographer Michael Clark on an unique Fall/Winter 2023 assortment highlighting British tradition for London Vogue Week. There have been daring graphics, rhinestone-embellished knits, exaggerated sleeves, examine suiting and quippy placards alongside the tops that learn, ‘WITCH,’ ‘DENTIST’ and extra
The Comedian Lacquered Pumps (Spring/Summer time 2023)
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Anderson leaned into surrealism as soon as once more with the debut of the Comedian Lacquered pumps within the Loewe Spring/Summer time 2023 assortment. The larger-than-life footwear had an exaggerated chunky design that immediately felt prefer it was plucked from Barbie’s wardrobe.
Rihanna on the Tremendous Bowl LVII
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Rihanna wore a vibrant crimson, customized Loewe ensemble throughout her 2023 Tremendous Bowl halftime efficiency, that includes Anderson’s signature balloon-like campy breastplate that complemented her being pregnant announcement.
Anya Taylor-Pleasure in a Trendy-Day Victorian Costume for Emma
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For the 2020 press tour of the movie adaptation of Jane Austen’s Emma, Anya Taylor-Pleasure showcased a sculptural Loewe gown, which reimagined Victorian trend via its cloth, piping, and fashionable crinoline silhouette.
JW Anderson Males’s Fall/Winter 2015 Assortment
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JW Anderson’s Males’s Fall/Winter 2015 assortment drew inspiration from the Nineteen Fifties via to the Eighties, showcasing exaggerated collars and cuffs, ultra-high waist pants with facet slits alongside the hem, and mixing the many years’ references into an ambiguous aesthetic.
Dame Maggie Smith x Loewe Marketing campaign
Juergen Teller/Courtesy of Loewe
Loewe’s Spring 2024 pre-collection featured, then, 88-year-old actor Dame Maggie Smith, highlighting the timeless nature of fashion and paying homage to a British icon.