That is Nordic bohemianism, which implies that middle-class individuals sit in cute cafés and bistros, lie on park lawns, and jog whereas pushing prams. Frederiksberg’s cultural aspirations are a bit posh, however you possibly can safely ignore its little theatres and museum dedicated to Danish writers.
I did wander into Cisternerne, a subterranean former water reservoir turned putting artwork area, hidden below a hill in Sondermarken Park. However you don’t need to be underground for lengthy in Frederiksberg, which is graced with ample parks of un-Australian greenness and politely twittering birds.
Frederiksberg Palace.
From Sondermarken Park I skirt Frederiksberg Palace, onetime royal summer season residence however – phew – seldom open for visits. The gardens although have been open to the general public since 1852. And there the general public nonetheless is, picnicking on lawns, strolling round lakes, and being ogled by elephants within the adjoining zoo.
I spend a cheerful hour right here: Copenhagen at its most pleasant. Then I stroll previous a statue of Frederik VI – thanks mate to your inexperienced area – and cross the road the place I spot a church, thundering with the music of an organist at follow.
Proper behind it I uncover the world’s most stunning cemetery, Frederiksberg Aeldre. Pretty bushes, clipped hedges, beautiful flowerbeds, polished tombstones framed in additional flowers: it might nearly be price dropping useless in Copenhagen to finish up right here.
The cemetery is on the high of Frederiksberg Allé, one of many metropolis’s most gracious streets. When you stroll down it, pause for a relaxation on a bench in Sankt Thomas Plads, or be a part of residents for a café brunch, though Danish brunches – rye bread, thinly sliced cheese, boiled eggs – are austere. However that’s actual life, isn’t it? Higher than a full English vacationer brunch downtown.
That’s how my days go in Copenhagen, mooching about, strolling good streets, being nosey, admiring the Scandinavian stylish of impartial boutiques alongside Værnedamsvej.
Discover a park the place locals hang around and whereas away a while people-watching.
I discover one other public park (Haveselskabets) and a horticultural backyard (Landbohojskolens) the place locals stare at apple bushes. So I stare at apple bushes too, and at passing Danes, and picture being a Dane myself.
And if anybody asks me what I did in Copenhagen, I’ll need to say I did nothing a lot in any respect, however I’ve by no means had a greater time.
THE DETAILS
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Fly
Turkish Airways flies from Melbourne and Sydney to Copenhagen by way of Istanbul. See turkishairlines.com
Keep
Resort Ottilia in a transformed manufacturing unit near Sondermarken Park options industrial stylish, fashionable Nordic furnishings, an incredible rooftop restaurant and really welcoming workers. Rooms from DKK 1266 ($305) an evening. See brochner-hotels.com
