One thousand toes above the world’s largest iceberg, it is arduous to consider what you are seeing.
It stretches all the way in which to the horizon – a discipline of white so far as the attention can see.
Its edge seems skinny as compared, till you make out a chicken flying alongside and realise it’s, in reality, a cliff of ice tons of of toes excessive.
Scientists who’ve used satellites to trace the iceberg’s decades-long meanderings north from Antarctica have codenamed the iceberg A23a.
However up shut, numbers and letters do not do it justice.
It is a seemingly limitless slab of white, fringed by an aquamarine glow – the ocean at its base backlit by a sill of reflective ice under.
Monotonous but magnificent; we’re flying alongside the shoreline of a nation of ice.
And it is also arduous to consider you are seeing it in any respect.
The place it has run aground – 50 miles off the small island of South Georgia – appears impossibly distant.
We’re 800 miles from the Falkland Islands and 900 miles from the icy wastes of Antarctica.
With no runway on South Georgia, there’s just one plane that ever flies right here.
As soon as a month or so, a Royal Air Power A400 transport aircraft primarily based within the Falklands carries out Operation Chilly Stare – a maritime surveillance and enforcement flight over the British Abroad Territory that features the neighbouring South Sandwich Islands.
It is a easy, albeit noisy, two-hour flight to South Georgia.
However because the dramatic peaks of the island come into sight, the journey – for us inexperienced passengers no less than – will get scary.
Gusts off the mountains and steep terrain throw the aircraft and its occupants round.
Not that that stops the pilots finishing their circuit of the island.
We fly over a few of its 500,000 sq. mile marine protected zone designed to guard the best focus of marine mammals and birds on the planet that’s discovered on South Georgia.
Solely then will we head out to the iceberg, and despite the fact that it is just a few minutes flying from South Georgia it is at first arduous to see. It is so large and white it is indistinguishable from the horizon by means of the haze.
Till instantly, its edge comes into view.
It is instantly obvious the A23a just isn’t too lengthy for this world. Massive icebergs tons of of metres throughout have already damaged off and are drifting nearer to South Georgia.
All alongside its edges, cracks are showing and arches at its base caverns are being eroded by the hotter ocean right here, undercutting the ice, weakening it additional.
The iceberg may current an issue for a few of South Georgia’s super-abundant penguins, seals and seabirds. A jumble of quickly fragmenting ice might choke up sure bays and seashores through which colonies of the animals breed.
The trillion tonnes of contemporary water melting out of the iceberg might additionally intervene with the meals webs that maintain marine life.
Nevertheless, the breeding season is coming to an finish and icebergs are additionally identified to fertilise oceans with sediment carried from the Antarctic continent.
The influence on transport is extra related. There’s not a lot of it down right here. However fishing vessels, cruise ships and analysis groups ply these waters and smaller lumps of ice known as “growlers” are a daily danger.
A23a will create many.
Icebergs this large are too few for scientists to know if they’re changing into extra frequent or not.
However they’re symptomatic of a clearly rising pattern. As our local weather warms, Antarctica is slowly melting.
It is shedding round 150 billion tonnes of ice a yr – half of it breaking off the continent within the type of icebergs calving from glaciers, the remaining melting instantly from its huge ice sheets as temperatures steadily rise.
The tempo of A23a’s disintegration is way, far quicker. It should disappear in months, not millennia.
However watching its edges crumble and slide into the South Atlantic, you may’t assist seeing it because the destiny of an entire continent in miniature.