This 12 months is the a hundred and twenty fifth birthday of the Paris Metro, a surprise of the belle epoque and one of many world’s nice transport programs.
Since opening earlier than the 1900 Olympics, its tentacles have unfold across the French capital, evolving into an ever-growing knot of strains aiding the tens of millions of individuals dwelling in and round Paris (in addition to all of the vacationers).
Whereas my favorite of all of the 308 stations might be the futuristic Arts et Metiers — its platforms appear like one thing from a Jules Verne sci-fi story — my favorite of all of the 16 present Metro strains (4 extra are being constructed) is Line 1.
Its now-driverless trains rush east-west — and west-east — by way of the core of France’s capital each couple of minutes. It’s an excellent service and drops you — and picks you up — at a wide range of locations, from the Arc de Triomphe and the Louvre Museum, to the Resort de Ville and Bastille. Not solely the busiest line on the entire community, it was additionally the primary to grow to be automated greater than a decade in the past.
Prolonged over time, with plans for future extensions, it’s bookended by two contrasting enclaves technically exterior town limits of Paris.
Whereas its western terminus is La Protection, a shiny, skyscraper-strewn monetary district, at its japanese finish is the Chateau de Vincennes, which (type of) takes you again to the Center Ages.
Rising from the subway right here, you’ll see the fortress that provides the station its identify, with its 52m-high hold particularly hanging. Top-of-the-line preserved medieval fortresses in France, the chateau was used as a royal residence from the twelfth to 18th centuries and in addition, for a interval, as a jail, the place the likes of the Marquis de Sade and Denis Diderot — controversial figures from the French Enlightenment interval — had been detained.
Step throughout the footbridge over the grassy moat and you may enter the complicated and its enormous courtyard. A ticket permits entry to the dungeon and different components of the fortress, in addition to its chapel.
Alternatively, you could possibly simply wander by the perimeter of the chateau partitions into the neighbouring Bois de Vincennes. A favorite with households, canine walkers, joggers and cyclists, this monumental city park — Paris’ largest — sprawls virtually 1000ha throughout former royal looking grounds.
It’s divided into sections, with woodlands, boating lakes, botanical gardens and rustic spots for picnics and studying books within the shade. You’ll come throughout occasional quirks, comparable to totem poles and a monument to Beethoven, whose symphonies wowed the French.
For an altogether completely different expertise, mosey by way of Vincennes’ tidy city centre, which stretches north of the chateau. You’ll see a string of bistros with terraces — a number of providing keenly-priced lunch menus (three programs for $30-40) — in addition to boulangeries and patisseries promoting freshly-baked treats.
Munching on a crunchy ham baguette sandwich, I keep it up wandering by way of the largely residential streets up into Montreuil, Vincennes’ nextdoor neighbour.
There’s a grittier really feel on this former industrial city, situated on a plateau 120m excessive. It’s much less polished and extra working-class and bohemian, with shabby-arty bars and eateries spilling out onto the pavements, previous factories remodeled into studios and cafes, road artwork liberally splashed about by the city’s graffiti artists, a few of whom lead occasional guided strolling excursions showcasing one of the best items.
There’s nothing operating in the present day, so I amble round Montreuil independently.
In addition to an array of eye-catching artwork, I additionally discover new purchasing strips and glossy glass workplaces which can be turning into the norm on the previous industrial fringes of Paris.
On the sq. by the city corridor of Montreuil, police are chatting to African males promoting corn from purchasing trolleys whereas previous French women shuffle previous with their produce-filled luggage and a younger crowd are larking round exterior a contemporary up to date arts theatre.
And guess what? There’s a Metro cease right here too.
Montreuil is on the japanese finish of Line 9. And using this for 20 minutes will take me again to central Paris. I could alight at Chaussee d’Antin — La Fayette station — gateway to glamorous malls and the Opera Garnier — but when I keep on for an additional 10 minutes, I’ll attain the Franklin D Roosevelt cease, the place I may hop out onto the Champs-Elysees and even change to that trusty Line 1.
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+ For extra data on visiting Paris, see parisjetaime.com
